Sewing 101: Skills, Fabrics, and Techniques
Overview
About
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01: Getting Started & Understanding Your Machine
Gather your shopping list to be prepared: a sewing machine, needles, spools of thread, straight pins, measuring tools, fabric, removable fabric markers, and scissors. Walk through the parts of the sewing machine, including the "bag of parts" that you get with a new machine, and review some common troubleshooting scenarios if you're working with an older or unfamiliar machine.
02: Needle & Thread, Fabric & Interfacing
Explore the myriad types of thread available, as well as clever storage tips for your thread collection. Then, review the variety of needles you can use with your machine, from universal needles to specialty needles for stretchy fabrics, delicate fabrics, or thick fabrics. Finally, select and attach the type of interfacing that will provide optimal stability to your fabric.
03: Cut like a Pro
Identify the edges of your fabric—raw, folded, and selvage—and accurately place and pin your pattern pieces using the grain line. Compare the process of cutting out your pattern pieces with fabric scissors to using a rotary cutter, and why flat-head pins are the best choice for the latter. Finally, learn a trick to reviving a wrinkled old pattern instead of buying a new copy.
04: How to Sew & Beginner Sewing Terminology
This lesson walks you through selecting the correct presser foot, pinning your fabric pieces together, determining the correct seam allowance, and finally, letting your machine do the hard work for you. Sample swatches with clear contrast between fabric and thread allow you to see important concepts like backstitching, stitch lengths, and types of stitches. As you work, learn the vocabulary of sewing, from basting to bias cuts and more.
05: Bring It All Together
For your first project, create a beautiful notions storage pouch with three coordinating cotton fabrics and heavyweight interfacing. You will apply everything you have learned in the first five lessons and be amazed by the quality of your finished product. This pouch would make a great handmade gift for other crafters or for children to carry art supplies or small toys.
06: Spotlight Project: Infinity Scarf
If you want to learn how to work with stretchy knit fabrics (and if you enjoy accessorizing with pops of color) this lesson shows you how to create an infinity scarf. Learn about the needles, feet, stitches, and pinning techniques that are best for this stretchy fabric. Once you've seen how easy it is to create this versatile accessory, you'll want to make a dozen more!
07: Skill Building: Making Your Own Bias Tape
While you can buy pre-made bias tape at the fabric store, if you want to save money and achieve a more customized look, you can create your own using scraps of fabric you already have in your stash. Even a fat quarter is plenty of fabric to edge a baby bib, which is exactly what you'll be creating in this project guide.
08: Designer Hints: Invisible Zippers
Invisible zippers are perfect for skirts, dresses, and any garment where you need a zipper for functionality, but don't want it to be a design feature. Master the use of the concealed zipper foot and the delicate art of creating a zippered seam that is invisible and smooth.
09: Spotlight Project: Boxy Pouch
Continue working with zippers in the Boxy Pouch project. You'll learn how to create a 3D boxy bag with contrasting lining, a strap, and fabric zipper tabs. Conquer your fear of gussets with a foolproof method. These bags are indispensable for sewing notions, small knitting or crochet projects, art supplies, toiletries, LEGO blocks, or other small toys.
10: Spotlight Project: Pajama Pants
Nothing makes a lazy day feel even more luxurious than when you are wearing custom-designed pajama pants that you sewed yourself. It's the perfect project for fun, colorful fabrics. With this project, you'll learn how to create a channel to add an elastic waistband for the ultimate in lounging comfort. If you're looking for practice hemming before you hem your expensive pants, this project offers tips for you to get your feet wet with cuffs and hems.
11: Spotlight Project: Reusable Tote
Create a unique lunch tote lined with vinyl for easy cleaning. Get insider tips for sewing with vinyl, which is difficult to work with, resists pinning, and can stick to your sewing machine. Fold and sew a 6-inch gusset so your tote bag stands up on its own. You can then create the same pattern in larger sizes to use as a grocery bag or even a beach bag.
12: Two-Handed Hot Pads
In this lecture, create the first of an assortment of useful home goods: two-handed hot pads lined with heat-resistant batting that are perfect for moving trays and large pots. Understand why finishing your edges with bias tape is important when creating curved pieces and how to create and attach pockets that are the perfect size for your hands.
13: Towel Toppers
Sew a towel topper that not only keeps your dish towel close at hand, but makes your towel look like a delightful little dress. Discover the technique for creating a folded hem and neater seams on a steeply curved edge. Compare methods for attaching your towel topper to your oven handle.
14: Reusable Bowl Cover
Customize bowl covers for your favorite bowls using cotton fabric, elastic, and rickrack. These covers are handy for carrying a dish to a potluck, protecting picnic food from the elements, or just keeping that plate of cookies out of sight and out of mind. This project is a valuable first step in customizing a project to the size of an object, as opposed to from a pattern.
15: Couch Caddy
Keep your favorite book, reading glasses, and remote close by when you're relaxing in your living room with a couch caddy made from cotton fabric that coordinates with your existing decor. Learn how to create pleated pockets that make it easy to drop items in and take them out. You can make a weighted pocket for the other side or cut the project longer so the extra length can tuck under the seat cushion.
16: Hanger Buddy & Plate Holder
Make travel and camping easier when you make two simple projects: a zippered pouch that ties to a standard clothes hanger and can store accessories, jewelry, makeup, or other small objects, and a pouch that holds a plate, napkin, and silverware. Learn the "window technique" for hiding zipper tape under a decorative edge and how to best secure hook-and-loop tape.
17: Outdoor Fabric & Cutting Perfect Squares
Save money and create new cushions for your furniture. Explore the various fabrics that are good for indoor cushions, dog beds, throw pillows, or outdoor cushions. Calculate the amount of fabric you will need to buy to cover each cushion perfectly. Learn how to cut perfect right angles so your cushions look professional and neat.
18: Setting a Zipper & Finishing
Use your old cushion's measurements to determine where to put the zipper on your new cushion cover. Proper zipper placement ensures that your cover is easy to put on, is on a side that faces away from view, and any prints on your fabric are displayed right side up. You will also learn how to shorten a zipper that is too long for your cushion.
19: Shaping the Cover
Give your cushion cover dimension by adding gussets. Of course, since you have done your custom measurements, these gussets will give your cover a perfect fit to your existing cushion. Take your mastery of gussets one step further by learning how to create a gusset on an edge that has a zipper. Finally, cover your old cushions and enjoy!
20: Getting Started & Expanding Your Stitches
It may be tempting to stick to the default construction stitch for everything, but your machine can do so much more. Get a demonstration of stay stitching on a shirt pattern and see why you should never skip it. Then, learn how ease stitching makes it much easier to fit a sleeve into an arm hole. Finally, learn why topstitching is important and explore what color thread to use.
21: Sewing Darts & Pleats
Add dimension and texture to your projects with darts and pleats. Learn how to read a pattern to determine where darts and pleats should be placed. Review the process for creating knife pleats, box pleats, inverted box pleats, single pointed darts, double pointed darts, and curved darts and learn when to use them.
22: Tips for Sewing Curves & Corners
Smooth curves and sharp corners are the hallmark of an experienced sewer. While many issues can be avoided by adequate pinning and sewing slowly, there are others that require some specialized tricks that may not be listed in your patterns. Learn how to place a single stitch that will give you sharp corners with thicker fabric.
23: Professional Seam Finishes & Ways to Hem
Replicating the tailored seams and hems of a quality store-bought garment is easy to do with your home machine if you know these techniques. Using fabric swatches and contrasting colored thread, your instructor will walk you through creating a French seam, flat fell seam, double fold hem, and blind hems, as well as using hem tape.
24: Selecting Shirt Size & Stitching Shirt Front
In this first of six lessons, learn how to take measurements to create a garment that will fit the garment wearer's body perfectly. Begin your shirt sewing with the pocket and shirt front. Alter a rectangular pocket pattern to create a pointed bottom. Learn how to read your pattern so you attach your pocket at the perfect height on the shirt and pin straight.
25: Adding a Yoke & Stitching Shirt Back
The yoke is a way to add designer details to the top of your shirt. If your pattern does not include a yoke, learn how to create your own yoke pattern piece. Learn how notches help you align your pattern pieces and when you can safely clip them off. Finally, identify the pitfalls that are common when novice sewers try to customize a pattern.
26: Adding Plackets & Stitching Sleeves
Prepare your sleeves for plackets by adding pleats using a clever pinning trick. Learn how to read the placket pattern piece so you can accurately cut your fabric, mark it, pin it, and stitch it to the sleeve. It can seem like a lot of work for a small design feature, but it is one that takes your shirt from average to exceptional.
27: Cuffs & Sleeves
First, pin your front and back pieces together and use a construction stitch to attach them. Next, learn how to work with the difficult opposing curves of an armhole piece and sleeve piece so you can stitch shoulders that are smooth and don't have puckers. Then, sew the longest seam on your shirt, from the cuff to the armpit and then down the side. Finally, explore the variations you can do on a standard cuff.
28: Adding a Collar & Stitching Shirt Front
Add your front band to finish the front of your shirt and be ready for buttons—and do it all with only one seam! Add pins for perfectly positioned buttonholes. Stitch your upper and lower collar pieces, using interfacing to add stiffness to the fabric and trimming your seams to create crisp corners and smooth curves. Finally, get tips and tricks to perfect buttonholes.
29: Selecting Jacket Size & Altering Pattern Pieces
When it comes to sizes, outerwear measuring is different than measuring for shirts, pants, or skirts. Knowing how to measure correctly ensures the perfect fit for your new jacket. You'll see how to adjust collars and cuffs for height and shape to suit your sense of style, as well as how to design pockets that suit your hand size. Finally, learn how to add on to a jacket pattern to make the finished jacket longer.
30: How to Sew the Modified Pattern Pieces
If you've done modifications to your collar, pockets, length, or zipper, learn how to attach them to your original pattern pieces so they look like they were meant to be there all along. Your collar will lay flat, your pockets will be placed perfectly, and your zipper will zip easily every time.
31: Adding a Lining & Stitching Sleeves
Attach your sleeve linings in a way that you can avoid doing extra top stitching. If you did the pajama pants project, this is a logical extension of the technique used there. Attaching the sleeve will be easier with the knowledge you gained in the custom shirt lessons. While jackets are much bulkier pieces, your instructor will give you tips for working with the fabric.
32: Spotlight Project: Knit Pencil Skirt
Take your measurements to create a custom pattern for a pencil skirt in your exact size and preferred length. Learn how to set up your serger to create a solid side seam and how to test the fit so you can adjust your pattern on the fly. Follow along as you see how to sew a stretchy elastic waistband to stretchy knit fabric.
33: Faux Fur & Leather
Faux fur and faux leather (vegan leather, or pleather) use the same needles, foot, and techniques. Cut faux fur without tiny pieces of hair flying all over your sewing room and learn how to sew pieces of faux fur together in a way that looks seamless from the right side. Leather and faux leather cannot be pinned without permanent holes, so get tips for "pinning" these pieces without pins.
34: Sequined & Sheer Fabrics & Lace
Sequined fabrics, sheer fabrics, and lace can be frustrating to work with for beginners, but with the tips and tricks in this lesson, you'll be able to add these dramatic fabrics to your projects. Learn how to cut, prepare, pin, press, sew, and hem these fabrics with tricks your instructor has mastered over her years of experience.
35: Quick Tips & Bonus Project
Explore the ways you can maximize the potential in all fabrics from velvet and velour, to silks and satins, to embellished and textured fabrics. Practice your skills with pleather and velour to create a unique and stylish case to protect your eyeglasses.
36: Sewing Laminates & Laminate Cutting Tips
Learning to sew with laminates can greatly expand the number of projects you can tackle; because they are virtually waterproof and easy to wipe clean, you can make things you can't make with cotton. Explore the features and benefits of oilcloth, vinyl, and laminated cotton. Observe the most effective methods for cutting and caring for these tricky but infinitely useful materials.
37: Vinyl/Oilcloth Receipt Wallet
In this project, you will create a receipt wallet from oilcloth using a walking foot on your home sewing machine. Next, sew with clear vinyl to create zippered pockets for your wallet. Finally, join the vinyl to the oilcloth to complete the project.
38: Laminated Cotton Receipt Wallet
To appreciate the differences between oilcloth and laminated cotton, this lesson walks you through the same receipt wallet project using laminated cotton for the outer layer. Because of the natural fiber weave in laminated cotton, it is important to finish the raw edges so they do not fray.
39: Spotlight Project: Oilcloth Money Wallet
Oilcloth is durable, easy to keep clean, and comes in myriad colors and designs. Your instructor has created her own oilcloth wallet pattern, which holds credit cards and cash, has a pocket for coins and receipts, and closes securely with a metal snap. Best of all: you don't have to turn it right-side out when you're done sewing!
40: Spotlight Project: Oilcloth Pleated Clutch
Oilcloth is so affordable that you can create a bag for every occasion and in every color of the rainbow. In this project, you'll be creating visual interest by sewing pleats across the front of a clutch-style handbag. Your recently acquired skills in zipper installation and gusset creation will be put to the test with this thicker fabric.